Matt Griggs

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Matt Griggs at Shark Island

 

Wednesday morning (11 July) I was walking along the esplanade on my way to Bass & Flinders not really planning on shooting any surf images that morning. As I strolled along the path I spotted a lone surfer out the back of Shark Island surfing the lefts. He was carefully picking off the the long walled ones angling in from the east. As luck would have it I did have a camera with me and decided to park myself on one of the benches and watch for awhile. I got my camera ready just on the off chance that there was something worth shooting. Just as I got my camera ready the lone surfer lined up a huge walling left hander and back doored one of the best barrels I had seen in a fair while. It was done with such flair and style I quickly realised the surfer had to be someone with a ton of experience out there at The Island.

 

Checking back through the shots on the screen on the camera I thought the surfer looked like Matt Griggs. His style is familar and there are not too many who could have pulled off a ride like the one I had just witnessed. Later that morning morning I called Matt at home to double check that it had indeed been him that I had seen out the Island earlier in the morning. He confirmed that it was and that he had enjoyed well over an hour out there by himself and that it had been one of the best mornings surfing he had had in some time. Just him and the dolphins that had been cruising along the back of the line up while he was out there.

 

The second wave in the sequences was shot a little later in the morning after Andy King, Terepai Richmond and his son Tainui, Boogs and a few others paddled out.